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The Julian News
Julian , California
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April 21, 2010     The Julian News
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April 21, 2010
 

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10 The Julian News Julian Volleyball Season Moving Into Final Weekend by Tom Madeyski The popular YMCA Volleyball League, now in it's 14th season, has been one of the best ever. Each Sunday night at the Iqigh School gym, eight coed teams play intense three-game matches. High flying spikes, dives, blocks and digs abound, with the quality of play the strongest we've seen. Three- game sets are played on the hour, starting at 5:00 pm. Close to 45 adults and some high school players enjoy great competition each week. The Spikes Team, captained by Kary Johnston, has moved into first place with a record of 24-6. Craig Pierson, Skylar Farr, Darin Borgstadter and Cara Kern nail spikes from setters Cheryl McColl and Johnston. Team SideOut follows closely in 2nd place at 21-9, led by spiker Patrick Keane, setting by Leah Keane and Linda Stringfellow, High School Coach Lauren Blissikopf, Ixtcaso and Madeyski. Perennial league champs BigEye have been slowed by the injury The MisFits stands at 11-19; the MisFits Team with Lindsey Jennings and Thurston Thompson 6-24 and the Squirrels Team from Camp Stevens round out the league at 5-25. The YMCA Volleyball League is operated by staff of Camp Marston as a service to .the community. Spectators are invited to drop by for the last evening of the regular season on April 25. Matches are: 5:00 pm Blurr vs. Spikes; 6:00 Marston vs Dinks (a pivotal matcH); 7:00 BigEye vs. Misfits; 8:00 Squirrels vs SideOut. The season culminates with a Championship Tournament beginning at 5:00 on Sunday, May 2. The Blurr The Dinks The Squirrels bug, but Danny Lynch, Victoria Beardshear and the Cornette family - Cody, Chris and Lisa - are tied with the Dinks in 3rd place with a record of 20-10. The Dinks team is solid from top to bottom, including Dink and Theresa Gregor, Trevor Smith, Sara Tweety and former Julian star athletes Amanda Young and Jennifer Rainey. The Dinks, also at 20-10, are vying for a playoff spot with a surprising Camp Marston Team. Led by outside hitter Inn Jackson and Brazilians Jean Paulo and Anna Flavio, the Y team stands at 17-14 as they fight for the lone remaining playoff spot. An improved "The Blurr" team led by Alyssa Steeber ............... ....................... : .... ................. '1 b C , U ard) April 21, 2010 . i 00iii Showcase Home in Cuyamaca Woods. Octagonal Home with 2 BR & 2 BA, 1327 sq. ft. on 5.61 park-like acres with it's own vinyl-lined lake. Don't miss this elegant home! $550,000. il i Renovated Classic Cabin on .82 View Acre. Fully remodeled 1920's cabin with new stainless appliances, granite counters, two Murphy beds and a new bathroom. Great value! $215,000 2127 Main Street (Next to Town Hall) www.JulianRealty.com Dennis Freiden Jane Brown-Darch6 Deborah Jane Kerch Feral Cat Roundup continued from page 1 trap an animal and release it for some reason, it is unlikely that you will be able to catch it again -- they learn very quickly. If there are young kittens involved, remember that they should not be weaned from the mother before 4-6 weeks of age. If you are trapping a lactating female, you may want to wait until you have located the kittens and they are old enough to wean. If you wish to tame and foster the kittens to adopt out, they should be taken from the mother at 4-6 weeks. If you wait until the kittens are older than 4-6 weeks before trying to tame them you will find the job progressively harder with age. Setting the Traps Plan to set traps just before or at the cats' normal feeding time. This is often at night. Dusk is usually the best time to set traps. Don't trap in the rain or the heat of day without adequate protection for the trap. Cats are vulnerable in the traps and could drown during storms or suffer from heatstroke in the sun. Use common sense! Fold a piece of newspaper to line the bottom of the trap just covering the trip plate. Cats don't like walking on the wire surface and the paper helps to keep their feet from going through when you pick up the trap. Be sure that the paper does not extend beyond the trip plate. Too much newspaper can interfere with the trap mechanism or prevent-the door from closing properly. Plan placement of traps on a level surface in the area where the cats usually feed or have been seen. Cats are less likely to enter the trap if it wobbles. If trapping in a public, area, try to place traps where they will not be noticed by passersby (who may not understand that you are not trying to harm the cat). Bushes are often places where cats hide and provide good camouflage for the trap. Use smelly food to bait the trap. We find that canned mackerel is very effective and relatively inexpensive. It is best not to put any bowls inside the trap to hold food since the animal can easily hurt itself on it in a panic or while recovering from anesthetic. Soak a small scrap of newspaper (2-3 inches by 3-4 inches) in the mackerel juice, and place it on the ground where you plan to place the rear of the trap. Spoon a small amount of food onto the soaked newspaper scrap and place the trap on top of the food so the food is as far back in the trap as possible while still not accessible from outside the trap. (You want the cat to go all the way into the trap to avoid being injured when the trap door closes.) Press the trap down onto the food so that it squishes up through the wire. The idea is to make the food a little hard to get so that the cat has to go into the trap as far as possible and has to work at getting it long enough to trip the trap. (Some cats are very good at getting in and out of traps without getting caught. We don't want to make it too easy for them to get away with that trick. Also, having the food essentially outside of the trap prevents the cat from eating it in the trap before surgery and is less messy.) After baiting the trap, open the trap door by pushing the top of the door in and pulling the bottom of the door upward. There is a small hook attached to the right side of the trap top. It hooks onto a tiny metal cylinder on the right side of the door. The hook holds the door in an open position which also raises the trip plate. When the cat steps on the plate it will cause the hook to release the door and close the trap. After setting the trap, cover it with a large towel or piece of towel-sized material. Fold the material at the front end of the trap to expose the opening while still covering the top, sides and back of the trap. The cover will help to camouflage the trap and serve to calm the cat after it is caught. Just before you are ready to leave the trap for the cat to enter, you may want to push the hook (ever so slightly) a little bit back off the cylinder to create a "hair trigger." (Don't get too carried away with this step, or the trap will trip as soon as the cat takes a sniff!) Waitiqg for Success Never leave traps unattended in an unprotected area, but don't hang around within sight of the cat (or you will scare it off). The trapped animal is vulnerable. Passersby may release the cat or steal the trap! Wait quietly in an area where you can still see the traps without disturbing the cats. Check traps every 15 minutes or so. You can often hear the traps trip and see the cloth cover droop down slightly over the opening from a distance. As soon as the intended cat is trapped, completely cover the trap and remove the trap from the area if other cats are not in sight. You may consider putting another trap in the same spot if it seems to be a "hot" one. Be sure to dispose of the food left on the ground when you pick up the trap. (You don't want to litter or give out any freebies and spoil any appetitesT) When you get the captured cat to a quiet area away from the other traps lift the cover and check for signs that you have the correct animal and not a pet or previously neutered feral. (The FCC marks the right ear of every animal we alter so we can avoid repeat animals.) If you note that you have captured a lactating female check the area for kittens and remember that this female must be released 10-12 hours after surgery so she can care for and nurse her kittens. Cover the cat back up as soon as possible. Uncovered, the animal may panic and hurt itself thrashing around in the trap. Of course, there is always the chance that you will caich some other wild animal attracted to the food or an unintended cat. Simply release the animal quietly as stated in the releasing procedures here. Holding Procedures After you have finished trapping, you will probably have to hold the cats overnight until you can take them to the vet. (Unless you have made previous arrangements with a vet.) Place cats in the prepared protected area. Don't feed them. You can place a small bowl of water in the trap by opening the trap door just a couple of inches and placing the bowl by the trap door. Try to use a bowl that won't be tipped over easily. An empty catfood or tuna can works fairly well. Don't open the door too wide, or the cat may escape. (Be sure to remove the bowl before transporting the cat to the vet.) Keep cats covered and check periodically. They will probably be very quiet as long as they are covered. Don't stick fingers in the trap or allow children or pets near the traps. These are wild animals which scratch and bite. ALL ANIMAL BITES ARE SERIOUS! IF YOU ARE BITTEN SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION AND DO NOT RELEASE THE CAT. IT MUST BE QUARANTINED. CONTACT YOUR VET FOR QUARANTINE INSTRUCTIONS. Wash and change clothes before having contact with your own pets as a precaution against spreading any contagious diseases the cats might carry. Always get feral kittens checked out by a vet and isolate them from your pets. Some deadly diseases can incubate without symptoms. Check with your veterinarian and use caution. Releasing the Cats If a cat does not seem to be recovering well from the surgery, consider having it checked out by a vet before releasing. When cats are ready for release, return to the area in which they were captured and release them there. Do not relocate the animal7 It will be disoriented and most likely die. In all likelihood, area cats will drive it away. If the veterinarian has indicated continued on page 14